I decided to take a trip from York to the beautiful Yorkshire Dales. I didn’t want to drive myself today—when you drive, you miss things.
So, I decided to let someone else handle the wheel and chose Mountain Goat. The company has been running tours from York for about 10 years, though it was originally founded in 1972 in the Lake District.
Their head office is located in the village of Windermere.
The company was started to provide a link over the steep Lakeland passes. Apparently, the name came from a passenger who remarked that the buses climbed the hills “like mountain goats.” After dominating the Lake District market for decades, they expanded to York to cater to the high volume of tourists wanting to see the Yorkshire National Parks. They have been operating for over 50 years and remain a multi-award-winning specialist.
Travel Tip: If you are booking for the peak summer months, it is highly recommended to book at least 48 hours in advance, as these 16-seater buses fill up much faster than standard city sightseeing buses.
Tours depart from the Leeman Road coach stop, conveniently located near the Memorial Gardens and York Railway Station. The tour starts at 9:00 am, so if you are staying in York, you will need an early breakfast and plenty of time to get there from your accommodation. The company sends a message or email to confirm your tour along with a photo of the meeting point, which usually shows the gates leading into the Memorial Gardens. You are asked to arrive 15 minutes before departure. On the day I was there, three minibuses arrived; two were heading out on different tours. The vehicles are luxury Mercedes Sprinter 16-seater mini-coaches, all equipped with air conditioning.
Our driver introduced himself, and we boarded. The bus wasn’t full today, so I managed to find a seat in the second row. We set off exactly on time, driving out of York past the National Railway Museum. Our driver began telling us about the day—where we would be going and where we would be stopping. He used a microphone so his commentary was clear and concise.
After about 45 minutes, we passed through Ripon. It’s a small city but well worth a visit; the cathedral is beautiful and a must-see. There is no admission charge, though donations are gratefully received. We eventually moved deeper into the countryside, finally seeing the classic vision of the Yorkshire Dales: stone walls surrounding fields and sheep—lots of sheep.
We arrived at Grassington, parking just a short walk from the village. We arrived just after filming had taken place for All Creatures Great and Small. The shops were in the process of being transitioned back to their everyday look. I managed to get a photo of the Devonshire Arms pub, which is used for exterior shots as “The Drovers Arms” in the series; remarkably, both signs were up at the same time!rite your text here…
We stayed for about an hour and then made our way toward Hawes. Some roads were closed for repairs, so we took a detour, but we did stop at a lovely little church: St Michael and All Angels in Hubberholme, Upper Wharfedale. The church features beautiful stained glass and famous pews.
Hubberholme is famous for having an entire set of oak pews and choir stalls hand-carved by Robert “Mouseman” Thompson in the 1930s. I noticed they were all secured to the floor; it is sad that this is necessary, but they are worth a great deal of money.
You can see more of his furniture at Coxwold. Coxwold is home to St Michael’s Church, which contains beautiful examples of Mouseman craftsmanship. His trademark carved mouse appears on:
Oak pews
Choir stalls
Other fittings commissioned in the early 20th century.
This is one of the best places outside Kilburn to see his work in situ.
Nearby is the main workshop at Kilburn, the home of the white horse, the chalk figure carved into the hillside.The Kilburn White Horse is a giant hillside figure carved into the western face of Sutton Bank, North Yorkshire. Created in 1857, it’s the largest hill figure in England and one of the most iconic landmarks in Yorkshire.
🏡 Nearby: The Mouseman Workshop (Kilburn)
Back to the tour:
J.B. Priestley: The church is the final resting place of the famous playwright J.B. Priestley, who described Hubberholme as one of the “smallest and most pleasant places in the world.”
The Rood Loft: It is one of only two churches in Yorkshire to have preserved its medieval rood loft (the gallery above the screen).
🕍 What a Rood Loft Is
A rood loft is a timber or stone gallery positioned above the rood screen—the architectural divider between the nave (for the congregation) and the chancel (for clergy). It served several functions:
- Display platform for the crucifix and flanking statues.
- Liturgical use, holding candles and sometimes used for reading scripture.
- Musical gallery, where minstrels or singers performed on feast days—hence the nickname singing gallery.
- Symbolic boundary, marking the threshold between clergy and laity.
Access was usually via a rood stair, a small spiral staircase built into the church wall. Many of these stairs survive today even where the loft itself has been removed.
🕰️ Historical Context
Today, complete rood lofts are rare, though many churches retain their screens and stairways.
Common in England and Europe from the 14th to mid‑16th century.
Removed during the Reformation, when roods and lofts were considered “superstitious.”
Interestingly, J.B. Priestley is not actually buried in the churchyard. His ashes were divided between three places, and only three people knew exactly where they were placed.
We continued to Hawes, well known for the Wensleydale Creamery, where we stopped for just over an hour. The creamery has a visitor centre with a restaurant and a cafe. I had a lovely lunch: a Yorkshire Pork Pie with Wensleydale cheese and chutney. They have a shop where you can buy cheese and souvenirs of all descriptions. You can also take a tour to see how the cheese is made (for a fee).
The story goes that the creamery was saved by two famous characters: Wallace and Gromit. In 1992, the factory had actually closed, and production moved to Lancashire. A management buyout brought it back to Hawes, but the business struggled until Nick Park chose Wensleydale for his films. He didn’t choose it for the taste, but because the word “Wensleydale” made Wallace’s mouth move in a funny way! The “Wallace Effect” caused sales to skyrocket, turning the struggling business into a global brand.
Returning to the minibus, we made our way to Aysgarth Falls. We only had time for the middle falls today, though I have visited the upper and lower falls in the past. All the falls are spectacular, especially after heavy rainfall.
Our final stop was Bolton Castle. It is a remarkably complete castle where Mary, Queen of Scots was held for approximately six months between 1568 and 1569. Her “imprisonment” was quite grand; as an unconvicted queen, she was treated with the dignity of her rank. She lived with a staff of 51 people, including a hairdresser, an embroiderer, and her own cook. She was even allowed out to go hunting and hawking in Wensleydale. Legend says she once tried to escape toward Leyburn, giving “The Leyburn Shawl” its name.
We walked around the castle, though I should note it is not very accessible. There are many steep steps, even just to reach the admission point. There is a small garden with a hedge maze. Just as we arrived, a Birds of Prey display was starting. It was entertaining and the staff were very knowledgeable and entertaining, though it wasn’t the absolute best display I’ve ever seen.
We returned to the minibus and arrived back in York just after 6:00 pm. I would fully recommend this tour for visitors without transport, or for those who want to have a rest from driving and simply want to enjoy the excellent local knowledge provided by the guide. Book your day out to The Yorkshire Dales below
