Crossing England on foot is one of the great walking adventures of the UK, and Alfred Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk remains the most iconic route of them all. Created by the legendary fellwalker himself, the trail stretches from the Irish Sea at St Bees to the North Sea at Robin Hood’s Bay, weaving through three national parks and some of the most varied scenery in the country.

Whether you’re dreaming of lakes and fells, sweeping moorland, or quiet Yorkshire villages, this route delivers a little bit of everything.

What Makes the Coast to Coast Walk Special?

Wainwright designed the walk to showcase England’s landscapes at their best. Although it doesn’t cover every corner of the country, it packs an astonishing amount of diversity into its 293km (182‑mile) length.

You’ll encounter:

• dramatic lakes and rugged peaks
• rolling valleys and limestone scenery
• vast moorland and remote hills
• charming villages, historic towns and friendly northern hospitality

It’s a challenge, yes—but that’s part of the appeal. The Coast to Coast is a journey you’ll remember for life.

How Long Does It Take?

Most walkers complete the route in 12–14 days, though anything between 10 and 14 is considered normal.

• Fast walkers: expect long days, sore legs and a zombie‑like shuffle by the end
• Steady walkers: enjoy the scenery, take breaks, and savour the experience

It’s your adventure—set the pace that suits you.

Which Direction Should You Walk?

Wainwright recommended walking west to east, from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay. Why?

• prevailing winds are behind you
• the toughest terrain (the Lake District) comes first
• the final stretch into Robin Hood’s Bay feels wonderfully triumphant

Walking east to west is still enjoyable, but most people prefer the traditional direction.

The Route: Three National Parks in One Epic Journey

Walking west to east, you’ll pass through:

1. Lake District National Park

The most demanding section. Expect steep climbs, rocky descents and huge panoramas. Lakeside paths, high ridges and classic Lakeland scenery dominate this part of the walk.

2. Yorkshire Dales National Park

A complete contrast—open moorland, wide horizons and peaceful farmland. Heather, dry‑stone walls and remote tracks define this middle section.

3. North York Moors National Park

More moorland, but with gentler undulations and the dramatic Cleveland Hills. This area feels remote and atmospheric, especially in low light.

Between the Dales and the Moors lies a flatter stretch through Richmond, Reeth, Danby Wiske, and Ingleby Cross—a welcome breather with plenty of villages and places to rest.

Coast to Coast Facts

• Highest point: Kidsty Pike (780m)
• Total ascent: around 6,995m
• First published: 1973 in Wainwright’s A Coast to Coast Walk
• World record: Mike Hartley completed it in 39 hours, 36 minutes (1991)
• Traditions: dip your boots in the sea at both ends, and carry a pebble from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay

Why Walk the Coast to Coast?

The Views

You’ll see England at its most varied—lakes, mountains, moors, valleys, coastlines, old mining relics, stone villages and sweeping countryside.

The Challenge

It’s tough. You’ll ache, you’ll get blisters, and you’ll question your life choices. But you’ll also feel immense pride when you finish.

The People

Northern hospitality is legendary. Expect friendly walkers, generous farmers, and locals who’ll happily share stories, advice and the occasional pint.

When Is the Best Time to Walk It?

Spring (March–May) – Best Choice

• long daylight hours
• mild weather
• fewer crowds
• clearer views

Summer (June–August)

• good weather
• but can be hot and very busy, especially during school holidays

Autumn

• often wet
• misty views
• shorter days

Winter

• not recommended
• snow, ice, limited daylight and dangerous conditions

Where to Stay Along the Route

Accommodation ranges from hostels and bunkhouses to pubs, B&Bs and small hotels. Book ahead—this is a popular walk.

Notable Hostels (West to East)

• Wild Wool Barn – overlooking Ennerdale Water
• YHA Black Sail – one of England’s most remote hostels
• YHA Borrowdale – warm, lively and perfectly placed
• YHA Grasmere – set in a beautiful old country house
• Kirkby Stephen Hostel – converted Methodist chapel
• Dales Bike Centre – ideal for walkers and cyclists
• Brompton-on-Swale Bunkbarn – rustic and simple
• YHA Cote Ghyll Mill – historic mill in the North York Moors
• Bransdale Mill Bunkhouse – charming and atmospheric
• Bank House Farm Hostel – friendly and remote
• The Old School House, Robin Hood’s Bay – perfect for your final night

If hostels aren’t your style, choose pubs or B&Bs—they’re more welcoming to muddy boots than hotels.

Can You Camp?

Yes, you can camp the entire route. Many walkers do.

But be realistic:

• after 15 miles in rain, pitching a tent isn’t fun
• you’ll carry more weight
• you’ll miss hot showers and warm beds

Wild camping isn’t technically legal in England, but if you’re discreet, respectful and tidy, most people won’t object.

Where to Eat

Pubs are your best friend.

Expect:

• roast dinners
• pies
• pastries
• cakes
• fish and chips on the coastal stretches

Carry snacks—some sections between villages are long and remote.

Is the Coast to Coast Difficult?

Yes. Very.

Physical Challenges

Blisters, sore joints, shin splints, back pain—almost everyone gets something.

Mental Challenges

Rain? You walk. Tired? You walk. Fed up? You walk.

It’s relentless, but that’s what makes it special.

Navigation

The route is not fully waymarked. You must carry:

• a proper map
• a compass
• a reliable guidebook

Without them, you’ll get lost.

What to Pack

Essentials include:

• compass
• detailed map
• reusable water bottle
• first aid kit
• hiking poles
• multi‑tool
• battery pack
• waterproofs
• good boots (well broken‑in)
• snacks
• backpack
• sunscreen
• sleep mask (for hostels)
• flashlight
• a positive attitude

If camping: tent, sleeping bag, stove, etc.

How to Plan Your Daily Stages

Most walkers aim for 10–20 miles per day, averaging around 15 miles.

Plan your days from village to village, ensuring you have food, shelter and somewhere to rest.

Rest Days

Popular rest stops include:

• Grasmere
• Kirkby Stephen
• Richmond

Avoid Sundays—many places close.

Is It the Same as the Coast to Coast Cycle Route?

No. The cycling challenge runs from Whitehaven to Tynemouth or Sunderland, and follows a completely different route.

Top Tips for First‑Time Walkers

• Book accommodation early if you’re not camping
• Avoid October–February
• Test all your gear before you start
• Carry proper navigation tools
• Bring a camera—you’ll want the memories
• Most importantly: enjoy it

Final Thoughts

The Coast to Coast Walk is one of England’s greatest adventures. It’s demanding, beautiful, emotional and unforgettable. With good planning, the right gear and a sense of humour, you’ll experience landscapes and moments that stay with you forever.

If you’re looking for a challenge that showcases the best of northern England—including the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors—this is the walk to choose.

Walking England Coast to Coast: My 14‑Day Journey.

Day 1: St Bees – The First Steps

About 28 years ago I decided to do a long walk. I don’t know why I made that decision.

Well, that decision finished with me standing on St Bees beach with the wind behind me, I felt equal parts excitement and dread. Wainwright’s tradition is simple: dip your boots in the sea, pick up a pebble, and carry it all the way to Robin Hood’s Bay.

I did exactly that.

The first few miles were gentle enough, hugging the cliffs before turning inland. My pack felt heavier than expected, but the novelty of “I’m actually doing this” carried me through.

Into the Lake District: Beauty and Brutality

The Lake District is where the walk truly begins — and where it tries to break you.

Ennerdale

The approach to Ennerdale Water was stunning. Still water, steep sides, and that unmistakable Lakeland atmosphere. I stayed near the valley that night, tired but buzzing.

Honister & Borrowdale

The climb out of Ennerdale towards Honister was my first real test. Long, steep, rocky. I remember stopping halfway up, hands on hips, wondering why I’d voluntarily signed up for this.

Borrowdale, though, felt like a warm hug afterwards — friendly faces, good food, and the comforting knowledge that tomorrow would hurt just as much.

Grasmere

Grasmere was my first proper rest day. I wandered the village, ate too much gingerbread, and let my legs recover. It’s the perfect place to pause: beautiful, compact, and full of walkers swapping stories.

Kidsty Pike

The climb to Kidsty Pike, the highest point on the route, was unforgettable. The views were enormous — ridges, lakes, distant valleys. I felt tiny and triumphant at the same time.

By the time I descended into Patterdale, my knees were screaming, but my spirits were sky‑high.

Crossing into the Yorkshire Dales

Leaving the Lake District felt like stepping into a different country.

Kirkby Stephen

The approach to Kirkby Stephen was long but gentle. I stayed in a converted chapel, complete with stained glass windows — a surreal but brilliant experience.

The Dales Proper

The Dales are wide, open and exposed. Heather, moorland, dry‑stone walls, and endless horizons. I loved this section. It felt honest and uncomplicated — just me, the path, and the wind.

Richmond was a welcome return to civilisation. I spent the evening wandering the cobbled streets, eating a proper meal, and enjoying the feeling of being halfway across England.

The Flat Middle: Richmond to Ingleby Cross

This stretch is often described as “the boring bit,” but I found it strangely soothing. Quiet villages, farmland, long lanes, and easy miles. After the brutality of the Lakes and the bleak beauty of the Dales, the flatness was a gift.

I made good time here, and my legs appreciated the break.

The North York Moors: Wild, Windy and Wonderful

The Moors were a highlight for me — atmospheric, remote, and full of character.

Cleveland Hills

The climbs were short but sharp, and the views were spectacular. Rolling moorland, purple heather, and the feeling of being somewhere ancient and untouched.

Bloworth Crossing & Beyond

This section felt endless. A long, lonely track across the moors, with nothing but sky and silence. It was meditative, in a strange way. I walked for hours without seeing another person.

The Final Push: Robin Hood’s Bay

The last day was emotional.

As I approached the coast, the smell of the sea hit me long before I saw it. When Robin Hood’s Bay finally came into view, I felt a lump in my throat. Fourteen days of walking, aching, sweating, doubting, laughing — all leading to this moment.

I walked straight down the steep village street, found the slipway, dipped my boots in the North Sea, and placed my St Bees pebble gently among the rocks.

I’d done it. Coast to Coast.

What I Learned Along the Way

1. England is more varied than you think

Lakes, mountains, moors, farmland, villages, cliffs — all in one walk.

2. People make the journey

Farmers who let me camp, walkers who shared snacks, locals who offered encouragement. Northern hospitality is real.

3. Navigation matters

The route isn’t fully waymarked. My map and compass saved me more than once.

4. Your body adapts

The first few days hurt. Then something shifts — your legs toughen, your pace steadies, and you start to feel unstoppable.

5. It’s hard, but worth every step

There were moments I wanted to quit. I kept asking myself more than once why I had made that decision .But the pride at the end is indescribable.

Tips I Wish I’d Known Before Starting

• Break in your boots properly
• Carry more snacks than you think you need
• Book accommodation early
• Don’t underestimate the Lakes
• Take a rest day in Grasmere or Richmond
• Keep your pack as light as possible
• Expect rain, even in summer
• Enjoy the small moments — they’re what you remember

Would I Do It Again?

Absolutely. Not tomorrow — my knees still remember Kidsty Pike — but one day, I may.

The Coast to Coast isn’t just a walk. It’s a journey across landscapes, across moods, across your own limits. It’s England at its best, and it’s an adventure I’d recommend to anyone who loves the outdoors.